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style - issue 394


 

Return of the man

Over the past few fall/winter seasons, guys have turned into girls. It started innocently with 20-somethings emulating Paris Hilton’s grotesque fashion habits, like carrying a small dog everywhere or wearing Uggs in May. Some gay men began unabashedly and strategically integrating women’s pieces into their everyday wardrobes. A pair of black Jimmy Choo flats or Lindsay Lohan-esque sunglasses may make a subtle statement, but a line was crossed the day I watched a gay man and a straight woman scrap over a $2,000 YSL purse. He, naturally the victor, left the store carrying the bag with Victoria Beckham’s signature bent-arm bag-hook.

This fall, girly men and metrosexuals are in for a shock as the softer silhouette is about to get a kick in the ass. Fashion is getting a man injection. Picture yourself morphing into a greased-up, shirtless, muscle-bear mechanic. The shift began in 2008 when, as many designers were feminizing men, Vivienne Westwood courted controversy with her real-man Roma/Gypsy look. She sent a model with a slight gut, tattoos, rings and slicked hair strutting down the runway.

Then designers Thom Browne, G-Star and Marc for Marc Jacobs butched-up, showing jackets of wool and tweed, oversized sweaters in heavy wool and baggy dress pants. Designers such as Agnes B decked out models in coveralls. John Bartlett’s new guy is a bodybuilder bear in down-clad jeans and a velvet jacket. DSquared roughed up their boys, covering them with fake blood and dressing them in baggy long-sleeved shirts emblazoned with bloody hockey-mask emblems. Being a boy is definitely back.
Commonwealth Utilities - see images above

While the tent-confined fashion pack was squirrelled away during New York’s Fashion Week, Andrew Keegan and Richard Christiansen of Commonwealth Utilities showed their smokin’ hot Officer and a Gentleman-themed show at the NoMad Hotel. The audience had a hard time deciding whether the models or the collection was hotter: sweaters paired with long johns, a new take on tuxedos, jackets over sweaters and toques. The collection wowed all and was snapped up by Holt’s.
Must sees at LG Fashion Week

Once again LG Fashion Week is mired in controversy. Tongues are wagging about the new locale, the second in a month (the Allstream Centre at Exhibition Place, 105 Princes’ Blvd). Also at issue is who will be showing and who, in protest, won’t. Want to attend? LG Fashion Week runs Mon Mar 29–Thu Apr 1.
Consumer passes are $25 per show.

Here are the not-to-be-missed menswear shows:
Tue Mar 30: Zoran Dobric at 4pm
Wed Mar 31: Dimitri Chris at 4pm and Joe Fresh Style at 9:30pm
Thu Apr 1: Rudsak at 6pm and Bustle at 9pm.

 

Max MacDonald
style@fabmagazine.com

 

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